CAT NOTES
How can you help the transition?
How do I stop my cat from scratching my furniture?
CHANGING HOUSES OR OWNERS
This is a cat's nightmare. In general, cats don't like change - like most people really! However, their biggest concern is that there are no familiar smells to home in on. A cat's sense of smell is many times better than ours, and a lot more of their brain is devoted to processing information from their nostrils. They also produce oils which they rub on us and around their favourite spots to make the places smell like themselves. These oils contain fatty acids and pheromones (communication molecules) and stick to objects. However, when a cat is put into a new environment, or indeed when they smell a strong scent (such as perfume, ammonia or glue solvents), they can go into sensory overload and panic. Imagine it as though you walked into a room with blinding light and loud noise - it is going to take a while to sort out the good from the bad! So a cat will usually hide - sometimes for a day or two. If really panicked, they will try to get outside - AND THEN THEY WILL BE LOST. Cats are smart, but when they panic, they run for cover - and often get hit by cars, chased by dogs, can fall out of trees or get stuck in small spaces.
HOW CAN YOU HELP THE TRANSITION?
Consider BOARDING your cat for a few days around the time of the move. There is nothing scarier than things disappearing into boxes (including the cat!) and all the strangers and stress that go with a move. Better to know that your cat is safely at the cattery!
SET UP ONE SINGLE ROOM with as much familiar 'stuff' as you can. This will give the room a familiar SMELL. The furniture should be items the cat has slept on, so they have 'friendly and familiar pheromones' on them. Put a towel or other item on the cat's regular sleeping places a few days before moving - and put that (unwashed) in the room. Use the cat's usual food and water bowls, scratching pole and litter tray (not too close to the food though!!) in the room as well. Then you go visit the room. Do not let the cat out till it is calm and sniffing attentively at the door, and make sure THERE ARE TWO DOORS CLOSED BETWEEN THE CAT AND THE OUTSIDE and ALL THE WINDOWS ARE COMPLETELY CLOSED. So there are no mistakes and the cat does not get outside.
Additional Assistance - you can speed up the calming process with the Feliway Diffuser - it is the' friendly pheromone' diffuser and makes the cat think it has already rubbed its own face oils all over the room. It really works in the way that cats' brains do! We also recommend Rescue Remedy given in the water and even into the mouth if the cat is not too anxious about being caught.
Some cats take two hours to figure out where they are and settle in. Some take two weeks. Do not let the cat outside till you are sure it won't panic. If it is a newly adopted cat, give it time to know you as well. New owners will not have the advantage of things that 'smell familiar' - but the diffuser still works well. Take them out on a harness first if need be. And certainly the first trip out should be just before dinnertime, so the cat won't go far before its stomach brings it back!!
Moving and rehoming are hugely stressful for everyone, and you cannot counsel your cat about the benefits of their new abode. Keep things quiet and calm and let the cat explore safely. Lost cats are hard to find, and are frequently damaged physically and emotionally by an accidental escape. Plan ahead and be patient!
KITTEN KINDY
How much fun is it to watch two kittens play? Multiply that by 6 and that is Kitten Kindy! It is a couple of hours of 'safe play' for kittens, and an opportunity for their new owners to learn more than they imagined possible! Such as how to trim nails, give a pill and teach 'high fives'! Find out about the Perfect Litter Tray, the Perfect Scratching Post, and how to be the Perfect Owner (all cats are already PUUURRRfect after all!!). These classes are run 'in season' by our very experienced nurses - you'll have fun and, we hope, learn how to avoid some of the pitfalls of that city living presents to cats. Forewarned is forearmed - and you will soon understand what your cat is trying to tell you. Ask about KITTEN KINDY NOW!
INTRODUCTIONS - MAKING FELINE FRIENDSHIPS AS PAINLESS AS POSSIBLE ?
Cats really prefer things to stay the same, and they are usually very unsubtle about indicating their displeasure. Introducing a new anything--from another pet, to another
human to even new furniture--is a source of anxiety for the cat and the owner, so these are some strategies to help reduce the disruptions.
Introducing yourself--the easiest one. This is achieved when your cat selects you, and you can be pretty sure it will be love at first sight. Your new feline friend will quickly train you to their unique requirements, and most owners do not present any obstacles. (In fact, it amazes me what owners will put up with from their cats--their feline dictator's training methods are obviously very effective!) Remember, no cat ever changes--all you can do is change the environment so the cat no longer shows the undesirable behaviour (this goes for spraying, scratching--posts and people, roaming, food fetishists, etc.) Make your rules at the start, and be consistent. Cats are smart (smart enough to need antidepressants!), but they have no way of associating something they did more than HALF A SECOND AGO with any kind of punishment. In fact, PUNISHMENT NEVER WORKS WITH CATS, all the Feline Stars of T.V. perform of their own free will, and it is the cameramen who make it look easy and directed!
Introducing another person--The main concept here is to let the cat make the first approach. This is important when bringing a cat into a new home or bringing a new person into the cat's home. They have to get the measure of the person, and they do that by smell, watching and listening. Remember that when a cat walks into a room, it knows (by smell especially) who is already there, who was there half an hour ago, and who is coming down the hall now. It is a lot of information to process, and if you rush it, you can unnerve the cat. Give the cat a chance to 'take it or leave it' and never look straight into a cat's eyes--it is a very confrontational thing to do in cat language. Wait, with your head to the side and and look past the cat with half closed eyes. They will come just out of curiosity then!
Introducing a baby (or toddler)--this is a bit harder. Cats view babies and toddlers as different species to adult humans. The key is to supervise the cat's natural curiosity, while protecting the baby and the cat from each other's unexpected actions. Cats don't smother babies (that was the traditional explanation for SIDS deaths), and they get into the cots because it is SOFT, WARM AND HIGH UP! Provide a shelf with a view of what is going on nearby, and your cat will probably be happier there, as they are not really keen on the way babies move around in bed! Most cats will keep their distance from babies and toddlers, and are usually more tolerant of handling--they will tolerate more things from a youngster than an adult--but always ensure they have an escape route to lessen their anxiety should the small human become too boisterous.
Introducing another cat--cats really don't like other cats most of the time, so THIS CAN BE HARD! A great deal depends on whether the resident cat/s have ever had a friendship with another cat, and depends on the age of both the resident and the new arrival. If the newcomer is a KITTEN, then isolating it in one room with its food, litter tray and toys for a few days (till the resident cat becomes Curious rather than Furious) works well. 'Toweling' the resident, then the newcomer, then the resident again mingles the smells and makes the new cat less 'strange'. Once you open the door between them, DO NOT INTERRUPT THE HISSING AND SPITTING THAT IS BOUND TO HAPPEN. You
can cause confusion, and cats can't apologise, so it will then take much longer for them to figure out an amicable arrangement. Young cats (less than 6 months) will usually bond quickly and permanently, older cats take longer and may take up to six months to sort out their 'timeshare' arrangements around the cozy spots of the house. It is rare for these confrontations to become lethal, or even lead to a severe enough fight to cause damage. You can use the Feliway Diffuser here to make the room where they meet more 'emotionally cozy' and reduce anxiety, but the cats will have to have a 'discussion' and speak their mind as well.
Introducing a dog -dogs are really no challenge to a cat - as long as they can escape if they have to. The cat will always just 'go high' and then view the dog with disdain if it prefers not to be in canine company. The trick about the introduction is to prevent the DOG's hunting instinct from creating a CATastrophy by chasing the cat - sometimes out onto the road or other dangerous places. So, put the dog on a lead and let the cat investigate. You are in control then and can disrupt any problems. Once the cat is aware of the fact that the dog is allowed to live in the same house or yard, then in general, it will control the meetings. The dog may get a few biffs on the nose, but rarely any major damage unless it manages to bail the cat into a corner. Then it will have to learn the cat rules painfully. Many cats learn to adore dogs (they are, after all, mobile warm cushions!), especially they are introduced when the kitten is young enough to accept it as a friend!
Some cats, like some people, love everybody they meet, and will tolerate all kinds of change. However, as it is for most of us, First Impressions Do Count, and done thoughtfully and respectfully, can reduce conflict. How closely feline lives reflect our own!
House Training
THE PERFECT LITTER TRAY.
Most cats are quite happy to use a conveniently located, medium sized tray, with any kind of litter in it. However, many have very specific litter tray size, location and litter preferences. Some aspects of these are instinctive, some are learnt, and if your cat doesn't like the tray you are offering, you are the one who is going to have to figure out why and do change things so it goes back to the tray.
You will firstly need to keep your cat's litter tray very clean! You will need to CLEAN WHERE SHE'S BEEN with the right stuff - no disinfectants, no strong smelling deodourisers, just enzyme-based cleaners like BIOZET followed by S.O.X. (the stain remover) which we have at the Cat Clinic, (or Vodka which you may have at home - seriously!). Sometimes you need to have TWO TRAYS PER CAT, if they are very fussy about it.
You will need to put the tray somewhere quiet and private - not the kitchen or a busy walkway or laundry - but not too far from where the cat spends most of its time, particularly little kittens. And not near the food bowl - would you want to eat in the toilet?
You may need to try different TYPES of litter - after all - your cat has to walk on it to go to the toilet, and she just may not like the feel of the litter you have chosen. Many cats will poop beside the litter tray if this is the problem.
If your kitten is using the duvet to pee or poop on - remember IT'S ONLY BECAUSE SHE LOVES YOU! But now you have to get it clean. TALK TO US TO PREVENT IT HAPPENING AGAIN! It is very common in YOUNG or TIMID cats. The cat is giving you information - you have to understand cat communication - they are VERY SMELL ORIENTED. So,urine and faeces are, to cats, just another messaging system like email. We have to be smart enough to read it. However you don't want using the carpet or duvet to become a habit, and the sooner it is addressed, the quicker it is resolved!
HOW DO I STOP MY CAT FROM SCRATCHING THE FURNITURE.
Cats evolved to live in a dangerous world, where the safest place to be is up a tree. They also lived in a very low density environment - hardly any other cats were around in their desert habitat - so they developed a sort of email system - leave a message on a tree till the next cat came by and picked it up. So cats leave visual information by scratching trees - which also sharpens their claws ready to climb it in a hurry - and also they leave behind a subtle smell from glands in their paws and from their face to give an individual 'scent signature'.
So when your cat is clawing your furniture - think of it as a message that he's sure you are going to want. And jumping up high as being a way to guarantee safety.
There a some really good ways to keep your cat happy and your furniture safe. It is much easier to reward a cat for doing the right thing than to keep pouncing on them for doing the wrong thing. Just think how hard it is to figure out what is bothering your cat if it only hisses or cries - you have to keep guessing! So treat your cat like a toddler - give it the ways to do the right thing, then ignore the wrong thing!
The first is to get a REALLY GOOD scratching post. It needs to be at least one metre high (so your cat can have a good stretch on it), and be sturdy enough to withstand your cat pulling down on it. That is why your cat loves your couch - it doesn't move when they dig their claws in! Put the new post near where the cat scratches (usually somewhere near their food and sleeping spots), and rub their feet on it. Catnip often attracts them to the post as well. Play with toys on the post or put some food on top so your cat will explore and discover they can dig their claws in usefully. Once your cat has started using the post, move it away, and then start to MAKE YOUR COUCH UNATTRACTIVE by wrapping it in bubblewrap or doublesided tape (cats hate sticky things on their toes). You can also spray repellents on the couch - BUT NOT UNTIL YOUR CAT IS USING THE POST, otherwise, they will just choose something else you might not want scratched!
Teach Your Kitten To Play Without Teeth and Claws
THE PERFECTLY BEHAVED KITTEN.
If only there were such a thing! Everyone loves the 'play hunting' that kittens do, but not when their hands and legs are the objects hunted!
Cats are intelligent & agile creatures. During play, a kitten or an adult cat makes full use of its surroundings to provide itself with mental and physical challenges. Particularly attracted to moving objects, cats investigate new things on ground level or elevated surfaces alike. Play allows a young animal to practice important life skills without adult consequences. Running, jumping, hiding, and other playful antics could be invaluable later when hunting for food or escaping an enemy.
Play gives you an opportunity to teach acceptable behaviour to your cat. Avoid forms of play that encourage a cat's aggressiveness. No cat should learn that it is acceptable and fun to pounce on, grip, bite, or scratch any part of a person's clothing or body. Such innocent fun as chasing wiggling fingers or toes under the bedcovers could lead to problems later. The target of a cat's playful attention should be directed away from its human playmate. Introduce a variety of toys for your cat to chase, such as light-weight balls or toys suspended from string or wire. Your cat can simulate attacks without risking injury to anyone. If your kitten continues to attack your person, and draw blood, you need to take preventative action. Children should scream loudly and fall over - the overdramatisation will tell the kitten they have hurt their friend, and they will be more gentle next time. Adults should 'hiss' at the kitten when they see it coming in attack mode, or firmly 'scruff' it and then use 'time out' (for three minutes only) to interrupt the game. That way, the kitten learns the rules safely, and does not grow up attacking and drawing blood when their teeth and claws can do real damage.
Young cats often appear to respond to some 'phantom' enemy during normal play. The pet may pause as if to listen or look at something and then race away. Some people believe that, during such episodes, the cat is reacting to an imagined object or intruder. It is also possible that the cat is responding to a real stimulus that people cannot detect.
Juvenile cats are usually very active, sometimes overwhelming their owners. Young cats tend to be more active during evening and night time hours and frequently disturb their owners' sleep. Cats are naturally crepuscular (more active a dawn and dusk) because they have adapted to hunting in relative darkness. If your cat is satisfied with the amount of attention and exercise it gets before your bedtime, chances are good that its schedule of peak activity will gradually match yours. If your young cat tends to nap during the day when you are home, wake it up to play.
Though cats frequently seem to amuse themselves when there is no available playmate, they often thrive on additional social interaction with you. To increase your chances of sleeping through the night, play appropriate games with your cat and engage it in other activities it might enjoy, such as brushing, before retiring to bed. Provide a variety of attractive toys to entertain your cat so it is less likely to awaken you. Once you have gone
to bed, consistently ignore your cat's attempts to get your attention and it will eventually stop disturbing you.
'Cat-proof' your home by removing or preventing access to valuable or hazardous objects that will attract your cat. Apply screens on windows to prevent accidental falls or intentional escapes. It is normal for a cat to investigate elevated surfaces (tabletops, mantel) in its territory. Your valuables may be accidentally destroyed in such exploration, or the cat may destroy objects through playful mischief.
If your cat damages items in certain areas, it may be necessary to close the door to that room. Another option to discourage your cat from returning to an area is to make it an unpleasant place to visit. Strips of sticky tape placed sticky side up are an unpleasant surprise for cats to step on, as are shallow baking trays filled with water.If your cat is destructive or harmful with its claws during play, keep them well trimmed to avoid damage.
Most young cat 'behavioural problems' can be related to insufficient, inappropriate play and hunting instincts. Give your kitten consistent rules (or get another feline as a friend to do it for you is even better!) and everyone will enjoy the hunting game.
IDENTIFICATION
Mostly, cats know where they are. However, sometimes, their owners are not so sure of their location. If your kitten will tolerate a collar and disc, that is of assistance when your pet makes an unauthorised sortie further from home. The permanent form of identification, which is a silicon chip put under the skin (called an IDENTICHIP) is compulsory now. All vets and councils have the scanners to check all stray animals, and can then contact the database for the owners details. These pets are then rapidly returned to their owners, especially if the pet is registered on the AAR (a private database, accessible 24 hours a day and on the Internet, by any vet). NSW now requires cats to be registered and identified, so if there is no Identichip, then your pet will be permanently lost to you. Registration also gives the cat a legal status, so more can be done to protect them from irresponsible or neglectful owners. If you have an older cat, a collar and disc is still enough, but if that is lost, the cat will be hard to trace back to you. We can place the chip at any time, so please enquire.
PET INSURANCE
Yes, you can insure your pet! In fact, in the UK, more than 25% of pets are insured and it means that they can afford to have the BEST treatment possible, rather than have to compromise. You can too! As pet medicine advances parallel human human ones, it is becoming increasingly more intensive and technically complex. No longer just 'penicillin and plaster of paris' - anything they can do for you, they can do for your cat! There are several insurance options. They are all variations on a theme as they are all backed by the same umbrella company (Hollard T/as Petsure). The policies cost between $250 pa and
$456 pa. The some have annual rebates on routine health care, and cover up to $8,100 per problem per year, or 80% of the vet bill. The three main companies are
* Vets Own (run by a Sydney vet) ph 1 300 668 890
* Petsecure * AFS-PetMed ph 1 300 363 552
We certainly recommend insuring outdoor cats (cats who survive car accidents are expensive to repair) and those over 8 years old. It is certainly worth a thought!
Domestic hazards can be found in the garage (antifreeze, fuels), under the kitchen sink (acids, alkalis, bleach, disinfectants) or in the actual fabric that the house (wood preservatives). Intoxication can result from human medications (aspirin, paracetamol, antidepressants), certain foods (liver, onion, cocoa, too much raw fish), food contaminants (bacteria, fungi) or food additives (propylin glycol). Never give human medications to cats without checking with your veterinary surgeon.
Garden hazards include rodenticides (warfarin and related substances, calciferol, strychnine, bromethalin), herbicides (sodium chlorate, paraquat), fungicides (pentachlorophenols PCP), insecticides (pyrethrins, pyrethroids, organophosphates, carbamates, organochlorines), and molluscicides (slug bait - metaldehyde). Cats can also become intoxicated by certain plants (mushrooms, marijuana, pine needles) and animals (common toad, adder, stinging insects).
Plants to watch for-:Amaryllis, Bird of Paradise, Annum, Buttercup, Azaleas, Cacti (Physical spines), Boston Ivy, Calla Lilly, Christmas Rose, Chrysantheum, Clematis, Common/Cherry Laurel, Caladium, Creeping Charlie, Creeping Fig, Crown of Thorns, Crocus, Daphne, Daffodil, Delphinium, Dumb Cane, Emerald Duke, Easter Lily, Elephant Ears, English and Glacier Ivy, Foxglove, Heartleaf, Holly, Hyacinth, Hydrangea, Impatiens, Iris, Ivy (Hedera), Jade Tree, Jerusalem Cherry, Larkspur, Lily of the Valley, Majesty, Marble Queen, Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Nephthytis, Parlour Ivy, Philodendron, Poinsettia, Poth/os, Pot Mum, Oleander, Rhododendron, Red Princess, Saddleleaf, Schefflera, Snowdrop, Spider Mum, Sprengeri Fern, Sweet pea, Tulip, Umbrella Plant, Weeping Fig, Wisteria. If you have any further questions please contact the Poison Advisory Bureau or us at the Cat Clini
BOARDING
Cats have become a much more integral part of our families in recent times, and the level of care and affection lavished on them now approaches that given to children and friends of the human variety. In the same way as getting a baby-sitter became more acceptable, even essential, to a parental evening out, so providing secure care for cats (and dogs) has increased in popularity. Plus, probably your neighbour or friend is going to be away at the same time, and so is unavailable for 'food and litter tray' duties! Hence the Rise and Rise of Boarding Catteries.
Of course, your feline friends would prefer that you NEVER went away, but everyone has other obligations so the occasional absence is unavoidable. How do you select a good cattery? Word of mouth and inspection, as with anything. What do you look for? Clean, quiet, odour-free premises with the cats being extrovert in the main (i.e. not huddling in the back corners--though there are always some 'wallflowers'). If the owner shows you through and talks to the cats on the way, you can be pretty sure they are feline-focused!
How much room does a cat need? Studies show that cats, given complete free choice, in the wild, will spend 85% of their time asleep--more than 20 hours a day. Cats actually only move from comfy spot to comfy spot to continue snoozing, especially once they are past kittenhood, so the accommodations need to be big enough for that plus food and litter requirements, and as long as the cat is 'entertained' and has some interaction, then they are happy. The other thing to bear in mind is that your cat will behave very differently in a cattery than at home. They are smart and adaptable (amazingly so!) and even timid and aggressive cats will usually calm down and start to enjoy the company of the cattery people. They rarely get used to other cats, so mixing cats is not a good idea (but it depends on space and other things).
What about Cat Flu? This is the biggest problem for catteries, because vaccination cannot stop a cat getting flu. In the same way as human flu vaccination, it can only stop cats dying from flu, and usually shortens a bout of it to two or three days sneezing or sore throat instead of two weeks of misery. The second problem is that most cats, especially pure-bred ones, get the flu viruses from their mothers at about 6 weeks old, and retain them for life, with the virus re-emerging when the cat is stressed (in the same way as cold sores around the mouth recur for us). And boarding is 'stress'--any change initiated by others is unwelcome to your average feline dictator! So cats frequently sneeze a day or two after entering a cattery which is too early for a 'new' flu infection, and most likely their own virus popping up again. Does this mean vaccination is unnecessary? No, it is still essential in order to reduce any suffering to a minimum. The third difficulty with flu for catteries is the ease with which it is spread. One touch of one nose to another is ample to spread the virus--whether there is a human hand as intermediary, or a bowl or litter tray or cloth. Many disinfectants kills the virus--but cats are very sensitive to them too! It is a difficult juggling act, and it is not always possible to protect cats from flu (especially their own viruses!), but careful cleaning keeps most cats disease-free. If your cat comes back with flu, think of the number of colds kids get at kindy--it's the way of the world, but the cats shouldn't be dirty or skinny--good nursing gets results.
And fleas? It is now possible to prevent a cat from getting fleas at a cattery. Bear in mind that fleas find cats the 'purrfect' host, and they used to be hard to control. Many 'fleas from boarding' on cats and dogs were, in fact, the reservoir of fleas that waited to hatch in the house while you were all away, so suddenly 3 weeks worth of fleas leapt on your pet when it entered the house. Fleas hatch in less than half a second once the cat or dog breathes on the cocoon! Or the vibrations of your walk over excites them as well! However, now with one of the newer flea products applied either before going to boarding or on the pet's return, those bothersome biting bugs won't cause any more problems!
And food? Any good boarding establishment will feed whatever the cat usually likes. If it is barramundi or sliced filet mignon, you will need to take your own supply, but it will be given to your cat! However, most catteries use premium foods these days, as it means the cats go home looking in prime condition. Cats put their toys and towels in the litter tray, and it can be hard to keep track once they go into the wash! However, small favourite items are usually OK, but remember to ask for them with the cat--the best laid plans of mice and men often go awry!